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This
is the clutch slave extension on the
T-56. It clears the floor/tunnel by about 3/4". |
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The 2 clutch master cylinders pictured on the
right are; top; GM truck, 1990 era, and the OEM Mazda below.
I wanted to use a compatible master and
slave setup. I wanted off the shelf parts. I didn't want to use
the plastic OEM F-body slave and line next to the headers.
I didn't want to have to hack the car to
accomplish all this.
|
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| The
GM master here, is nearly a bolt in. The bolt spacing is 2 mm
too narrow. A couple of minutes with a file will fix that.
The mounting is off about 5 degrees, no
problem.
The Mazda pushrod will need to be
shortened a bit. Don't know how much yet. |
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| The
3 slave cylinders are, from left to right; Mazda OEM, GM truck
& F-body.
The F-body setup uses a plastic line
with goofy O-rings and retainer pins. And the pressure line is
too short for this application. The GM truck setup uses
threaded fittings and it's plenty long enough. |
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| You
will either need to use GM's clutch line from the master to
the slave, for $130, or you can purchase 2 Weatherhead
fittings - #C7936, a flex hose - Raybestos #BH35010, and a
22" 3/16 metal brake line. |
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| The
final setup is the GM truck master & slave. The master
only needed a bit of filing to elongate the holes about a mm
each. The slave only needed 2 new holes drilled, just to the
side of the holes from the removed studs. The bleeder screw is
moved to the other location to place the flex hose next to the
transmission. The bleeder clears the body by about a 1/4 inch.
More than enough room to get a bleeder hose on it. The master
pushrod from the Mazda is used after it is cut down. The pedal
stop needs to be adjusted to provide enough travel to release
the clutch fully. |
Here
are some bore measurements I took in researching the clutch hydraulic
options.
| Clutch
Master |
| Mazda OEM |
|
.702" |
|
| Chev 1990 P/U |
|
.810" |
Coni-Seal 10-39813 |
| Clutch
Slave |
| Mazda OEM |
18.95 mm |
.746" |
|
| Chev 1990 P/U |
22.26 mm |
.876" |
Coni-Seal 10-37815 |
| Chev T-56 |
30.20 mm |
1.189" |
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| Above
is the Mazda driveshaft, below the new built one.
The
drive shaft was easy. I measured the distance from the pinion
flange at the diff, to the output shaft seal at the trans.
31" exactly in my case. I took the
old Mazda shaft over to a driveline guy in my neighborhood; Driveline
Services
|
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| Mazda
OEM shaft is on the left, built shaft is on the right. I
believe the drive shaft shop said the rear yoke flange was
from a Nissan of some sort.
The OEM U-joint at the rear of the Mazda shaft
is too wimpy for my liking. Rob is going to build me a whole new
shaft with a HD flange at the rear that will take a 1310 joint.
Cost is about $300
|
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| Mazda
OEM on the right, built shaft on the left. You can see the
larger U-joint design.
I've had Rob do work for me in the past,
he does nice work.
The driveshaft was a bolt on just like
factory. You need to cut off the old exhaust heat shield
mount, it will hit the U-joint just behind the transmission.
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