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Taking
the Caddy engine out
This will not be a comprehensive
detailed step-by step account. You will need to posses some
mechanical ability at this point. If not, maybe you should
reconsider the whole engine swap project!
To begin;
Remove the hood, you'll need the room when it comes time to
lift that massive engine/transmission combination. Yes, you
can remove the engine and trans and still be able to roll the
car out of the shop on it's wheels.
Remove the strut brace.
Remove the battery, remembering to put up the windows first if
needed.
Drain the antifreeze and remove the cooling fans & rad.
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May
20, 2006
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Click image for a closer look |
Remove the air cleaner
assembly and plug the throttle body with rags to keep out what
you don't want to find in the cylinders when you first turn
the key to fire it up the next time.
Remove the exhaust cross-over pipe that runs from the front
manifold to the rear. This will give you much needed room to
access the transmission linkage and electrical connections,
which you can do next.
Next remove the alternator. Now the power steering pump and
belt tensioner gets unbolted. Remove the lines at the pump.
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Those power steering lines will need to be
detached from the engine block later when you lift it up.
Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body.
Remove the cruise control servo. You need to do this for
clearance when lifting the engine.
Don't bother trying to remove the fuel injection harness now,
just locate the multi-plug on the firewall located behind the
cruise control servo. Their is a bolt in the middle of the
coupled plugs that you can undo. The harness can be remove
easier after the engine is out. The vacuum hoses to the
evaporative canister at the left headlight can be removed
next.
The ignition wire connection at the distributor cap can be
removed.
When the engine is lifted up, you can decide to remove the
hose clamps on the heater hose connections behind the engine,
or do as I did, just cut them. |
Click image for a closer look
Click image for a closer look
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Now it's time to get that big beast up on
stands.
Remove the front wheels, and remove the 2 bolts that attach
the shock struts to the spindles.
Get a curved pry bar under the CV where it enters the trans.
Give it a quick "pop" to remove the axle shafts. The
one on the driver's side is a real bear. I got a better angle
when I lifted the engine up a bit.
Remove the A/C compressor bolts to the engine block & move
it out of the way.
Remove the engine & transmission mounting bolts, 2 front,
2 rear.
Remove the 2 bolts from the exhaust manifold at the back of
the engine. |
Now with an engine hoist, carefully lift
the engine & trans together. Slowly checking that all
clears. Now is the time to remove that driver side CV axle
shaft & the power steering hoses from the block.
Make sure the CV axles are clear of the trans and don't get
wedged between the trans and the body.
One last check to see that all is good,
and....
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Click image for a closer look |
Now remove the plastic starter cover and
starter.
Remove the 3 torque converter bolts, and then the 6 bolts that
connect the engine & trans together. |
Click image for a closer look |
Now
we move onto the overhaul
or
Let's
take the Fiero engine out
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